The Smokies, trail legs, wildlife, Hot Springs, etc!

Hi folks!

It’s been a second since I’ve had service enough to update y’all! This morning, I am typing to you from Smoky Mountain Diner in Hot Springs, NC! This is the first town that the AT passes directly through, making it a great place to take a break. I am intending to do just that; I’ll be taking a zero day today, no hiking at all. I can tell that my feet will thank me for one solid day of respite.

When last I left you, I’d been at Nantahala Outdoor Center. A rainy day climb out of Nantahala Gorge treated me to hail on top of Cheoah Bald, and the coldest night I’ve yet had on trail. It dipped below freezing, so I was sure to sleep with my water filter to prevent it from being ruined. I use a Sawyer Squeeze water filter, which is rendered useless if it freezes. I was glad, too, to have my thermal layers, as I had to wear every piece of clothing I had to sleep through the chilly night!

At the entrance to the Smokies is Fontana Dam, a large hydroelectric dam that the trail passes right over. It was neat that the trail passed over such a unique feature. Even better, though, was the Fontana Dam park, which included outlets to charge up electronics, and a hot shower in the park bathroom! The shelter at Fontana is often referred to by hikers as the Fontana Hilton. It was a fitting name for a ritzy place to bed down for the night.

After crossing the dam, I immediately entered into Great Smoky Mountains National Park. This meant an increase in both the number of people (day hikers and tourists abound!) and an increase in the wildlife. One evening, I helped a family build a campfire in exchange for s’mores (delectable), and I saw plenty of deer, wild hogs, and bears. In the early hours of the morning, I heard quite a commotion rushing my way. I realized when they got close that they were wild pigs. They were pretty small, maybe the size of a cocker spaniel. More shocking, though, was the 300-ish pound black bear that was chasing them! They passed by me by about 20 feet, so I just stood there and let them carry on. Quite a cool sight!

The Smokies also had Clingman’s Dome, the highest point on the whole Appalachian Trail. There was an observation tower at the top that treated me to panoramic views of the surrounding mountains. This was just one of the many views that the national park offered.

I think my feet and legs are finally getting dialed in to the whole hiking thing. I am sure that by the time I hit Virginia, my trail legs will be fully dialed in. My longest day so far has been 24 miles, but I’m averaging about 17 per day. After today’s day of rest, I’m sure I’ll be primed and ready to hit the trail with gusto!

I also had a run in with a rattlesnake yesterday! It was sunning in the trail, looking much like a root, where I came very close to stepping on it. It taught me to watch my step on the trail, but also ensured that every root that I saw for the rest of the day looked, to me, like a snake…

Anyway, I’ve got town chores to do today, including resupplying for the next stretch of trail, mailing home some gear I’ve judged I don’t need any longer, and eating plenty of delicious restaurant food while I’ve got the chance! I’ll check in with y’all next from Erwin, TN!

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